Ocun Ozone Lady climbing shoe review by HoldBreaker
The Ocun Ozone Lady is from the Ocun Ozone trio collection: the standard Ozone QC, the Ozone QC Plus for climbers with wide feet and the Ozone Lady for women. All of the Ozones come with the “3-Force” patented system, which:
- Stabilizes inner edge while standing on small edges by force contra-reaction from inner foot arch
- Stabilizes front part of the slipper construction in the area of toe joints
- Stabilizes big-toe position from horizontal movement from the tiptoe
All of the Ozones use Vibram XS Grip as rubber, and they are manufactured by highly skilled craftsmen in Ocun’s Czech factory.
I started out climbing in the Boreal Joker, moved onto La Sportiva Katana then La Sportiva Muira (trying both the lace-ups and the Velcro), then moved over to Five Ten Quantum. I’ve been climbing in the Ozone Ladies for the past one and a half years now and I’ve used them on plastic, granite, grit and limestone for bouldering and sport.
My first try with them was at an indoor wall and first impression was: awesome, these are super comfortable straight out of the box (and I don’t need to spend a couple of nights at home wearing them in first) and when I pulled the bands at the back to drop my heel in – there’s this sound of air coming out, pretty much like a suction cup. It felt solid, no space or air at all both round the toes and heel. Great!
But for the first few hours of that session my feet kept slipping, and I remember thinking, “This isn’t good.” I told Richie, and he just said – they’re a new pair of shoes with new rubber, you just need to climb more! So I did and he was right; after a while they stopped slipping and I was really enjoying that session.
What I really like about Ozone Ladies is … actually, everything. My heel hooks are solid; no air, space or movement within the shoe means they actually stick once I lock them in. This is such a difference because with some of the other shoes I’ve climbed in, there’s always been a tiny space in the heel and so it always used to slip when I put on a lot of pressure during heel hooking. This has helped my climbing because I can use heel hooks and become better at them, which improves my confidence and my climbing technique in general.
The toe is slightly down-turned and I am able to stand quite comfortably on tiny footholds because of the 3-Force system. The system is designed to wrap the rubber around your foot inwards, which makes the shoes feel tight and solid all-around.
What sets the Ozone Lady apart from the other shoes that I’ve used is the slightly high toe arch, which means the rubber on the toe doesn’t rub on my toes – through time, this seems to have reduced the corn size on my toes (bonus!).
The quick closure/ Velcro just means that the shoes are easy to slip on and off. Another bonus is that the material is made of synthetic microfiber, and this means that it moulds slightly to the shape of the foot but doesn’t stretch or lose shape during the lifetime of the shoe.
- Comfortable straight out of the box, no need to “break in”
- Moulds to the foot and doesn’t stretch or lose shape after a while
- No empty space around the heel and toe
- Greet heel for heel hooking on both rock and plastic
- Greet on for tiny foot holds on both rock and plastic
- The rubber is a bit slippery to start with
- The colour is a bit loud for my taste
Reviewed by: Emine Güler
- July 08, 2016